Châteauneuf-du-Pape @ Chez Masbert

The tasting group (which has been at it for more than a dozen years now—more than any can remember or admit to) convened at Chez Masbert for a blind tasting of the old standby, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, vintage 2003-2004, on March 24th. I brined up an eight-pound organic turkey breast and fired up the mesquite for my contribution to the post-tasting repast.

Reflections on the wines of the evening:

With the steadily rising prices of CdP (our tasting ranged from $19-$50 per bottle), the balance now tips in favor of the less expensive Gigondas, Sablet, Rasteau, and Côtes-du-Rhone for that quality/complexity/value proposition for Grenache-based wines of the Southern Rhone. The common theme was—all were decent, but none were indispensable in the “desert island” sense.

My scores mirrored the group of 10’s fairly consistently.

My favorite was a tad controversial. The 2003 Domaine Bois De Boursan
Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($40 from K&L in San Francisco; Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections) was “old school” CNP—more dark and brooding (redolent of higher proportions of Syrah and Mourvedre), and offered plumy leather and lavender, with a little “low tide” that I often associate with light or no filtration, thus letting a bit of healthy funk prevail. What sulfur there was blew off. I thought it was the Kermit Lynch wine (because of the aforementioned, which I certainly don’t view as a detriment—though others do). Overall group rating was #3.

My #2 wine, which was the group’s number 1, was new style all the way--2004 Les Cailloux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($30 from K&L in San Francisco; Robert Kacher Selections). It’s got an outline on the label of the stony vineyards of Châteauneuf. Bright laser-like Grenache with fresh French oak cooperage eased into an alluring sappiness with warm raspberry and spearmint, finishing with fresh-cut Bartlett pear, something I would normally associate with certain white Burgundies. This selection further solidified in my estimation Robert Kacher as an importer of distinctive wines. Robert Parker fancied this selection “irresistible” and assessed it a 90-93 rating.

The rest of the list:
# 3 was the “Kermit” wine: 2004 Domaine de la Charbonniére Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Hautes Brusquierés ($44 from Kermit Lynch, Berkeley. Herbal with tart rhubarb and raspberry, and maple syrupy new oak (the group’s #2).

#4: 2004 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($50 from K&L in SF; Eric Solomon/European Cellar Selections). Parker gave this a 91.Probably would improve over the next couple of years. In this “bio-dynamic” (which I think means taking a planted just before taking a leak in the vineyard on a full-moon night)I found brambly cranberry compote that finished with sappy-rootiness—almost like ginseng, though not unpleasant—but for $50, who you kidding?

#5: 2004 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($19 from K&L in SF; Premier Wine Company). A 90-point wine from the Wine Spectator, was Kimi’s favorite. I first detected a tarry Barolo-like quality in the nose, which was followed on the palate by gin-like qualities of juniper, bay leaf, and celery with a herbal-tannic finish. But in the glass for more than a half-hour, some chocolate-milky cherry aromas emerged. 92 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

#6: 2004 Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($40 from K&L in SF; MacArthur Liquors). While rereading my notes, this wine wouldn’t have seemed next to last: smoky bacon, strawberry jam, dill, wet hay and waxy honeycomb…ok, maybe it suffered because of the last two descriptors.

The last-place wine, 2003 Chateau de Vaudieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
($27 from K&L in San Francisco; Premier Wine Company) was distained by everyone but the proprietress of the house who found it “rich, meaty, brambly, great tannins; apples.” Number 7 of 7 for me: Lots of residual sulfur, but still with some interesting, but rather unyielding cherry and tobacco flavors. Who knows with time where this wine will go over time—but for the price, I’d opt for two decent bottles of Côtes-du-Rhone instead….or:


In retrospect, the best wine of the evening was one of the “after-wines” (this provided by Dr. Radel) was a dense-blackberry-packed, plush and peppery 100% Syrah, 2004 Corbiéres Le Clos Redon Chateau de Mattes-Sabran. It’s about $15 from North Berkeley Wines. Blew away the whole field in terms of depth, intrigue, and pure vitality—simply thirst-inspirational. Scarf this stuff up!


The great thing about hosting the tasting is that you get to revisit the dregs the next day. All the wines had improved after 24 hours of heavy breathing. Oxygen can be your friend.