Wild Wine of the Week
Bacchus Kabinett—Head Start on Summer Quaffing
2005 Schmitt’s Kinder Bacchus Kabinett
$13.99
K&L

When I walk into a wine shop, I usually like to try something obscure, something I haven’t had before, from a region that isn't well represented in our cellar. I am ever-hopeful of a new wine-find. Such was the case when I was at K&L (www.klwines.com) in San Francisco last week. I would wager that Randersackerer Ewig Leben is not a familiar name in your household. Most people pass by the German selections because of the unfathomable labeling. This 2005er in question is a charming Franken, from the easternmost wine-producing region of Germany, made from the hybrid Bacchus grape—named after the Roman god of wine and intoxication—the result of taking the cross of Silvaner and Riesling, then crossing it with Müller-Thurgau. Don’t try this at home. Just enjoy the frivolity of the product. The wine itself offers the charm of a Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise, perfumy, but without the syrupy quality. The qualities on the palate evoke apricot, pineapple, and slate after a spring rain. There is some residual sugar, so be forewarned. In the German wine classification system, Kabinett is less ripe than Spätlese, which is less sweat than Auslese. Not cloyingly sweet (off-dry, in wine parlance), this Kabinett is best served chilled as an apéritif. Kimi suggested a twist…and sure enough, a little lemon did the trick, providing just that touch more acid to balance the fresh fruitiness. Pleasant and uncomplicated—built for when the evenings start warming up—you’ll find it will provide welcome refreshment. The bold amongst us may even stick an ice cube in the glass if the wine isn’t quite down to its properly chilled temperature. No harm will be done. The wines of the Franken region are traditionally packaged in the Bocksbeutel, a wide, squat, green flagon of a bottle, said to be modeled after a billy goat’s testicles. Mmmm, good!